The Under the Influence team has the pleasure of visiting South African vineyards on a regular basis. It’s our job, okay? This is just a little walk through South African terroir, introducing some of the lesser know wine Estates, their incredibly diverse wines. One can travel 50 miles from Cape Town and experience climates similar to Bordeaux, the South of France and Italy.
Our first stop was Stellenbosch, a historic wine region, and home to some of South Africa’s leading red blends. De Toren is relatively new on the scene considering its widespread fame, with a maiden vintage of 1999 released at about 10 dollars a bottle. Since then their pricing has remained quite modest unlike some other super premium brands, while steadily increasing their quality levels. Their two Bordeaux blends, the left bank Fusion V and right bank Style Z, stand up to any others around the world and show wonderful new world fruit with old world complexity. Moving along, the bird’s eye view from the top vineyards of De Morgenzon in the Polkadraai Hills is truly breathtaking. One takes in the whole of Stellenbosch, False Bay, Cape Town, all the way to Paarl and Wellington. Their soon to be released Chardonnay follows the wonderful style of Chenin Blanc; intense, honeyed, beautiful fruit and freshness. Exciting Barbera and Zinfandel wines are waiting in the tasting room as well.
Elgin is a new and exciting cooler wine region between Cape Town and Hermanus. Moving up to Iona you are just struck by the awe inspiring terroir. High up on the Highlands pass, overlooking Elgin and the sea on the other side, this is the coolest vineyard site in South Africa expressing lovely Sauvignon Blanc and on a really exciting note, more plantings of Chardonnay. Paul Cluver is also moving in an exciting direction. If described in one word; focused. They are only interested in planting grapes that they can make leading examples of. This means out with the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for them and in with Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Keep a look out for their new 8% alcohol, honeyed, yet lip smacking Riesling. Wunderbar! Belfield is another example of focus in the Elgin valley, as this 5 hectare property has no other choice really but to lavish inordinate amounts of attention and care to its 3 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The gravelly ironstone soils, north facing slopes and long growing season ensure wines of intensity yet clarity. Elgin is starting to show off some exciting Bordeaux style wines.
Moving down the mountain, Hamilton Russell welcomed us with their impressive array of wines, including the Ashbourne and Southern Right range. Cooler climate Pinotage is really exciting, bringing out the more delicate nuances of the grape. The Ashbourne Pinotage is right up there with the best South Africa has to offer. Next to the cellar at Bouchard Finlayson, where you will notice high trellised grapes and these are the Nebbiolo that go into the Hannibal blend. They are kept high off the ground to keep the grapes as cool as possible, aiming for similar conditions to Piedmont. The Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc being produced at this cellar are also leading examples of cooler climate grapes grown for South African wine.
These are just a taste of what some of South Africa’s boutique producers are up to. South African wine has moved from “wine by style” to producing wines with a unique signature of place, which makes drinking these wines and exploring the vineyards all the more rewarding.
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